Chicago for National Bridal Market

Last week I travelled to Chicago for National Bridal Market, and while of course it is exciting to see hundreds of new wedding dresses, I don't go there just looking for what's pretty.

I go with a list.

This time, one of my main goals was to find new labels that don't have large minimum order requirements. I want to be able to choose the gowns I genuinely believe are right for my brides, rather than ordering dresses simply because I need to make up a minimum.

But just as importantly, I was looking at structure, construction and fit.

After so many years as a bridal seamstress, I find it almost impossible to look at a wedding dress without looking at how it has been made. I'm watching how the bodice sits, how the back fits against the body, where the boning is, whether the bust is supported properly and what I will have to work with later when that gown needs to be altered for one of my brides.

And that is exactly why I still believe seeing collections in person is so important.

Meeting Jimme Huang

One of the highlights for me in Chicago was finally meeting Jimme Huang.

Firstly, what a personality. He was so lovely to meet, and I was genuinely impressed with his collection.

There was one particular strapless gown with a low scooped back that really caught my attention. Low-backed gowns can look incredible in photographs, but in person I am always watching what that back actually does on the body.

This one sat beautifully.

The back followed the model's body and sat against her skin instead of gaping away, while the peaks at the top of the bodice held their shape beautifully. They may sound like small details, but to me they are the details that tell you a lot about the pattern cutting and construction of a dress.

That dress impressed me.

Sometimes the Photos and the Dress Are Two Different Things

There was another collection I had been particularly interested in because it specialised in plus-size gowns.

This is an area I would really like to continue expanding at Accapella, so I went in hoping I would find something wonderful.

Unfortunately, it didn't quite get there for me.

The photographs of the gowns looked beautiful, but once I could see the dresses in person and watch them on the models, there were several fit and construction issues that I noticed straight away.

I actually spent some time with them explaining a few of the things I could see and how I thought they could improve the fit. They are a newer company and were very receptive — so much so that they jokingly (or perhaps not jokingly!) offered me a job doing their quality control.

I politely declined. I'm quite happy staying in Australia!

But it was a perfect example of why I travel to these markets.

A beautiful photograph isn't enough for me.

Particularly with a plus-size collection, I don't simply want a gown that has been made in a larger size. I want the structure, proportions and pattern to have been properly considered for the body that is actually going to wear it.

And because I'm also the person who will eventually alter the gown, I know what happens after the bride leaves the showroom with her order.

I need to know that I can fit that dress beautifully to her body.

If I can already see problems with the pattern or construction while it is sitting on a professional model, it isn't something I am comfortable ordering for my brides.

And Then There Was Another Collection…

I also found another label in Chicago that I am very excited about.

It sits at a higher price point and has more of a couture feel, so it won't be a collection where I bring in dozens of gowns. Instead, I would like to select a few really special pieces.

And sometimes I think that is exactly what a boutique like Accapella should be able to do.

I don't want every rack filled simply for the sake of having more dresses. I'd rather have a carefully chosen collection where each gown brings something different — whether that is an incredible fit, beautiful fabric, unusual construction or simply something I haven't seen everywhere else.

This couture collection was definitely one of my favourites from Chicago.

What Comes Home to Accapella

Buying for Accapella has changed a lot over the years.

I'm much more selective now.

I'm looking for designers who allow me the freedom to choose the right gowns rather than filling minimums. I'm looking for something different from what is already everywhere in Australia. And above everything else, I'm looking at how the dress is made and how it is going to fit a real bride.

Because I don't stop being involved once I sell you your wedding dress.

I'm usually the person who later puts you back into that gown, pins it, alters it and makes sure it fits you the way it was supposed to.

So when I'm standing in Chicago watching a model walk past me in a new collection, I'm already thinking several steps ahead.

I'm thinking about my brides.

There are some very exciting new gowns and new labels coming to Accapella after this trip.

I'll share more as everything is confirmed — but for now, stay tuned. I think you're going to love what's coming.

Connie xo